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What to Do When the Septic System Backs Up

June 28, 2010 by Leave a Comment

Problem: Waste water from an on-site sewage system backs up into home sewer lines or seeps to the ground surface.

Background:
Common problems in private sewer systems are undersized drain fields, undersized septic tanks, and poorly maintained septic tanks (which cause clogged dry-wells or drain fields). Adequate drain field size depends on soil type and amount of sewage treated.

If the ground above the drain field is especially wet or soggy, or if the capacity of the tank is too small, the system may be inadequate. A 1,000-gallon septic tank is considered a minimum for 3-bedroom homes; 1,250 gallons for 4-bedroom homes, and 1,500 gallons for 5-bedroom homes.

What to do:
All septic tanks periodically need to have sludge and scum solids removed, depending on their tank size and the daily load dis¬charged into them. Some tanks need to be pumped out every 2 years, but others may need it only once every 10 years. [Read more...]

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How to Unclog Drain Pipes

June 24, 2010 by Leave a Comment

Problem: Drain pipes are clogged or drain slowly and clog appears to be beyond fixture.

Background:
Blockages further along fixture waste pipes are less common, and require the use of tools, such as a cable auger (sometimes called a plumber’s snake), a hydraulic opener, or a flat steel sewer tape.

The blockage may be in the waste pipe running from a single fixture, in a branch drain fed by more than one fixture, or in the main house drain. Unless you have the equipment and time, consider calling a professional to unclog these blockages. For blockages near fixtures.

What to do:
Flexible cable plumber’s snakes can be fed into the waste pipe leading from a fixture, through a vent stack or clean-out plug. Flat sewer snakes are useful when the blockage is too solid to be dislodged by a plumber’s snake. Feed a garden hose into the pipe and packing rags in the area where it feeds into a drain, can sometimes work. [Read more...]

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How to Unclog a Fixture Drain

June 22, 2010 by Leave a Comment

Problem: Water drains slowly or not at all through plumbing fixture drains.

Background:
Assuming that the plumbing for the fixture was correctly installed, most blockages occur close to the fixture’s trap—especially if the clog develops quickly and no other fixtures in the house are affected. If a volume of water can be run into the fixture before it backs up, or if other fixtures are affected, the blockage may be further along in the drain system. If the blockage is in the main house drain, it may first show up at the bottom-level floor drains.

What to do:
Drains can be un-clogged using several methods, including using a force cup with handle (often called the plumber’s friend), by removing the trap to clean it, by using a flexible coil spring auger, or by using chemical drain cleaners. [Read more...]

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How to Replace Broken Window Glass

June 20, 2010 by Leave a Comment

Problem: Glass pane in the window is broken, cracked, or scarred.

Background:
Most local hardware stores offer glass replacement services and can replace glass in wooden double-sash windows, horizontal sliding windows, casement windows, wood or aluminum storm windows or doors, or awning or jalousie windows. If you plan to replace the glass in a wooden window yourself, assemble a hammer, screwdriver, putty knife, and measuring rule or tape.

Then add a small package of glazier’s points, window putty, and either a soldering iron or a small propane torch to your supplies. (If you don’t have these mate¬rials, pick them up where you have your new glass cut.)

What to do: First remove the old putty, softening the old putty with either a soldering iron, small propane torch, or heat gun. Heat makes even ancient putty pliable and easy to remove. If you don’t want to invest in any of these tools, you might get by with an old clothes iron, or by soaking older oil-based putty with linseed oil to soften it. [Read more...]

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