How To Grow Grapes: Choosing Varieties, Vines, Pruning, Trellis

The art of grape-growing is only slightly older than the art of inebriation. Ever since the serendipitous discovery that fermentation is a good thing, grape-growing has been studied, experimented with, and generally ripped apart to the core with the objective of finding the best way to grow the best grapes.

how to grow grapesThe intention, of course, is to siphon off a bit of the revenue from one of the world’s biggest markets into a few well-fed pockets. Whether you’re interested in learning how to grow grapes for the commercial aspect, aesthetic value, or merely for the pleasure of eating the fruit of your own labor, information on the subject abounds.

One problem is, though, a lot of the really good tips are closely guarded family or corporate secrets. The second problem is that it lies hidden in great volumes. The third problem is that most of the really good stuff is in archaic French, so, even if your high school skills are well over par, you’d probably throw in the proverbial grape-grower’s beret by the middle of the first chapter.

Now, grape-growing needn’t be as discouraging as that if you only want the basics – prepare, plant, tend, reap. Choosing the right spot is very important because a lot of things hinge on this. Grapevines need a place where air and water don’t stagnate but are still plentiful. Rich soil is also needed. The next step is to choose what variety grows best on the type of land you plan to use and the climatic conditions where you live. A helpful tip here would be to decide what the end use of the grapes will be.

Next is the planting of the grapevines. This is a crucial step as the rootstock doesn’t take well to desiccation and out-of-soil storage. Be sure to plant them in even rows with at least 8 feet between vines. The land needs to be sloping to provide good water and air drainage. Learning how to grow grapes properly is mostly in the planting.

The next step is to wait….and wait….and wait. Grapes take anywhere from two to four years to bear fruit. In the meantime, take care of them, protecting them from pests, and regularly checking that the leaves have a healthy dark color, and composting the base of the plants if not. You can train your grapevines on what is called a trellis, which is a support base for the floppy vines to hold on to. This is a tedious job with young plants but will help you manage them later.

Pruning is a great way to divert nutrients to the fruit – your grapes will be the bigger and the juicier for it. Prune only new shoots that aren’t going to bear fruit or hold on to the trellis for better support. Once your vines go into fruition, tend to them carefully until maturity, and your harvest will be bountiful.


Credit : the gut

A Lawn is the Perfect Green Backdrop on your Garden part 1

It’s a garden paradox. While the lawn is perhaps the most unobtrusive feature of the landscape, it is also one of the most important ¡n forming the perfect green backdrop for the rest of the garden. As professional landscapers learn early in their career, if the lawn looks good, it has a remarkable ability to make everything else look better, too.

Even if you consider it only as a play area for the kids or a place to put your garden chair, it’s worth spending time to care for it.

Growing success
how to make your lawnDon’t try to turn it into a golf green – go for healthy and attractive instead. By selecting a grass variety right for your region and providing reasonable care, you can have a lawn to be proud of.

Starting from scratch
Sod or seed? Sod gives (almost) instant results but is relatively expensive and tedious to install. Seed is much cheaper, easier to use on irregularly shaped lawns, available in a wider range of grass varieties, and easier to work with. But it takes three or four months to establish and needs careful maintenance in the early stages.

Preparing the soil
Whether you decide on sod or seed, the key to a good lawn is to prepare the soil well – it may seem like an awful chore (it is), but you’ll end up with a far better lawn that is unlikely to present long-term problems.

First, clear the ground of any weeds or existing grass. It’s particularly important to get rid of perennial weeds such as crab grass, so apply a systemic weedkiller that doesn’t leave a toxic residue in the soil. Once the weeds have died back after a few weeks, they can be raked up.

Dig (or rototill) the area, incorporating plenty of organic matter such as well-rotted manure if the soil is poor. If it’s really heavy, fork in lots of coarse sand or add gypsum (calcium sulfate) to improve the drainage. Rake the area level and remove any large stones, then firm it down by walking over the whole area, taking small steps and rocking back on your heels (the neighbors will think you’ve flipped, but never mind).

Next, lightly rake the soil surface, leveling out any humps or hollows, until you’re satisfied that it’s flat -you can always double-check with a plank and a spirit level. Finally, rake in a starter fertilizer like 1 8-24-6 at 1.5 oz per sq yd/50g per sq m, a couple of days before sodding or seeding.

continue reading the part 2


Credit : waferboard

How to Make the Perfect Garden Compost

Making compost is the stuff of environmentalists’ dreams – recycling kitchen and garden waste and turning it into a rich, crumbly substance that will benefit the soil (and your plants), enormously. Making your own compost is by no means obligatory, but there is something very satisfying about it.

garden compostKitchen and household waste should yield good amounts of fruit and vegetable peelings and scraps, eggshells, coffee grounds, tea leaves, dust from the vacuum cleaner, pet hair – just about anything except meat and dairy products, which can attract visitors like rats.

The garden waste you add to the heap should be leafy or sappy material and woody – pruning that has been chopped up small or shredded. Grass clippings are useful too but are best sprinkled through the heap – if you add them in bulk, they make a slimy mass. Weeds can go in (if they haven’t set seed), but don’t add the roots of perennials such as crab grass and dandelions, which can re-sprout. And never add diseased material – most diseases are very persistent and can outlive the composting process.

The neatest way of composting is to buy a ready-made bin, but you’ll probably find that it’s too small. You can also make a bin, using four posts and a length of 3 ft/90cm tall chicken wire. Select a site that’s out of the way but convenient to the garden and exposed to sun and rain. Set the posts in the ground in a square and fasten the wire to three of the posts to make an enclosure; one side can remain open for access and be closed later with wire to a sturdy twist tie.

Lay some woody brush at the bottom of the bin to permit drainage and air circulation, then add a layer of compost material. Try to get a mix of “green” material -like grass clippings – and “brown” ones, like dead leaves. Add fresh manure or a compost activator (available from garden centers and catalogs – these nitrogen sources help the pile start “cooking” – and sprinkle a thin layer of soil over the pile every 12 in/30cm or so.

To speed decomposition, turn the pile occasionally with a garden fork, mixing the “cooler” material on the sides into the “hot” center. This keeps the pile from emitting odors. You can also poke holes in the pile with a rake handle to aid air circulation. If you’re lucky, worms will move in, too, helping the compost break down even quicker.

In hot, dry weather, water the pile until it is evenly moist.
- like a damp sponge. In six months (in the warmer spring and summer months), you will have rich “black gold” to use in planting and as mulch.


Credit : kristyhall

Hanging Baskets and Window Boxes

Although hanging baskets and window boxes are by no means an essential part of gardening, like all life’s frivolities, they’re guaranteed to lift the heart and bring a smile to your face.

Window Boxes

Growing success

They are, admittedly, time-consuming to look after-they need watering, feeding, and deadheading, but try to spare the time for just one or two. They’ll keep you cheerful for months on end.

Hanging baskets

Hanging baskets are available in a range of shapes and sizes, but the round wire basket is still the traditional favorite. These can be planted around the sides as well as the top, so that you can cram in a mass of plants for a really bold, lush display.

They need to be lined, of course, to retain the soil mix, and fresh green sphagnum moss blends in best with the plants, though there’s also a synthetic moss substitute that looks almost like the real thing. Wool, fiber, and rigid liners are also available, but they’re very unattractive – planting is easier, but you’ll probably regret buying them.

Plastic baskets are undoubtedly easier to plant, because they don’t need lining. Easier to care for too, since they don’t dry out as quickly and some versions even have built-in self-watering devices. But somehow, even when in full flower, they never look quite as charming as the wire baskets.

Window boxes

Garden centers sell a wide range of window boxes in clay, wood, or plastic. Larger, deeper boxes hold more soil and need less frequent watering. However, a large box placed in front of a small window can block lots of daylight, so you’ll probably have to compromise. One of the best solutions is to position and support the box just below the window ledge, allowing plenty of room for plant growth, especially if you have casement windows.

Planting a window box

Planting a window box is just like planting any other container. It’s essential to have drainage holes in the bottom, so make some if necessary. Add 2 in/5cm of drainage material, such as broken clay pots or foam packing “peanuts”, then fill with potting soil. Plant taller-growing varieties at the back, then smaller and trailing plants at the front and sides.

Firm the soil, adding more if needed, water well, and make sure the box is secure – you don’t want it falling off in a gust of wind. To prolong the life of a wooden window box, insert a plastic liner. Aftercare is the same as for hanging baskets, though it’s unlikely you’ll have to water every day. Just check regularly in hot, dry weather.