How to Grow Corydalis Incisa

Corydalis Incisa Facts
The Corydalis Incisa is one of the sturdiest little flowering plants I have ever grown. These are low-growing, pretty, perennial flowers from the beginning of summer right up until the onset of frost.

They are drought resistant and deer dislike them. Ten years back my friend gifted me a small bunch of bulbs when I bemoaned the fact that no plant would flourish in the dry shady area beneath our old Sugar Maple.

Initially, I was skeptical when I saw the small handful of Corydalis Incisa bulbs given to me, but presently my whole yard is bursting with them! The ordinary variety has smooth olive fern-shaped leaves and tiny bunches of trumpet-shaped yellow blooms. An unusual specimen, Corydalis Incisa has multicolored foliage along with rosy-purple flowers. The tubular blooms rise about one ½ inches over the green ferny foliage.

We have plenty of dry shelter, and I grow Corydalis Incisa all along the perimeter of our home and also at the boundary of the forest. They give a vibrant glow to shadowy areas, and even though they proliferate. They swell in clusters and are quite simple to shift or take out.

They mature from bunches of little bulbs and really are simple to separate and replant. Every time I come across a bare plot of earth in shady areas, I split an old tuft of Corydalis Incisa and place it in the ground. It always flowers and withstands even the severest of droughts.

Residing in Michigan and knowing that the Corydalis Incisa is strong to Zone IV is a huge benefit; moreover, we have very cold winters which can destroy plants believed to be sturdy to Zone V. It is cheering to see that these chaps will endure sub-zero climate and turn up to welcome me when spring arrives.

We have lots of deer where we live, but they would not nibble the Corydalis Incisa. I have taken snapshots of deer nibbling in our backyard, but once the photo session is done with, the plant is still there. [Read more...]

How to Grow Climbers and Wall Shrubs in Small Garden

Climbing plants are invaluable for giving the garden a well-furnished, finished look. And as a bonus, if you have anything to hide (an ugly wall, a dilapidated shed), they’ll do it beautifully.

wall climbers plantsWe’ll be introducing you to some of the better wall shrubs here, too – plants like ceanothus and pyracantha, which will benefit from the warmth and shelter of a wall, and add height and interest. So although they’re not climbers, they deserve honorary membership.

Growing success
Preparing the planting site is dull work, but vital for success, so don’t take short cuts, especially when you’re planting close to walls where the soil is usually poor and dry. It’s doubly important when planting a climber to grow up a tree, where it will always face fierce competition from the tree’s roots.

First water the plant thoroughly, then dig a hole that’s twice the width of the container and 12 in/30cm deep. Ideally, set the hole at least 18 in/45cm from the wall or tree, though in confined spaces this isn’t always possible. Improve the excavated soil by mixing it with equal parts organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure. [Read more...]

Garden Design Tips and Advice

If you make a mistake and put a plant, especially a tree or shrub, in the wrong spot, don’t be afraid to move it -plants of even four or five years old can be moved successfully, especially in fall or early spring. While the soil is moist, dig a planting hole in the new location. Then dig a circle around the plant, excavating as far as you can underneath it.

garden tipsLift it, retaining as much of the rootball as possible as some damage is inevitable, but very seldom fatal. Transfer it as quickly as possible to the new hole, fill in the soil, and water well. For the next year, keep the plant watered during any dry spells. Older plants can have enormous rootballs, but if your only option is to move them, then at least they have a fighting chance of survival.

When you view the garden from the house or from your favorite sitting area, it’s good to have a focal point where the eye can rest for a moment. A beautiful tree, a handsome pot, or even a small statue, carefully sited, can unify the garden design. Long, narrow gardens are the hardest to design. To avoid the “tunnel” effect, break the space up into a series of “rooms” using plants, trellises, arches, or pergolas. An area of lawn and trees, for instance, will look much more intriguing and inviting if it’s first glimpsed through a rose-covered archway or arbor.

If you’re nervous about designing your garden, then it may be worthwhile to get professional help. Be careful as some designers are better than others. Ask your friends if they can recommend someone or inquire at your local garden center. When you find a designer you like, visit gardens that the landscaper has worked on rather than looking at sketches and photographs. Or, check through gardening magazines -you may find an article with a landscape plan that you can adapt to your own garden or the name of a landscape architect in your area. Professionals can offer everything from design consultation to complete installation services.

Gravel may seem like a good low-maintenance idea, an inert covering for large expanses of ground. But children love to throw it around. Soil infiltrates and weeds begin to sprout. Birds can scatter it all over, leaves litter in fall and are a nuisance to remove, and it should be raked regularly to keep it looking neat.


Credit: amo-designare

Colors of The Garden – Window Boxes and Hanging Baskets

Making the most of Summer Color

Most people mix lots of different plants and flower colors in the same basket or box, and it can look lovely. However, you’ll get some even better effects if you’re slightly more selective. Experiment with simple color schemes – warm colors like the gold, orange, and red look great together, as do cool blues and whites.

On the other hand, go for a blend of similar colors, for instance, white, pale pink, and rose pink. If you’re feeling more adventurous, the most striking schemes are based on really strong contrasts like yellow with purple, blue with orange, and red with green.

Flowering plants

Flowering plants are the obvious first choice for boxes and baskets, but there are some very pretty foliage plants that will add an extra splash of color. Look out, in particular, for varieties with bronze, gold, or white-variegated leaves. And silver-leaved plants like dusty miller and helichrysum blend beautifully with pink, white, or blue flowers.

Window Boxes and Hanging BasketsIt’s always difficult to judge which plants will look good together, but one of the easiest ways is to wander around the garden center, gathering up all the plants you think you might like and putting them in a window box or basket that is roughly the same size as the one you’ve got at home. If one plant or color doesn’t fit your scheme, then keep changing until you’ve got the perfect combination.

Of course, you don’t have to confine yourself to bedding plants -it’s fun to experiment with other types of plants as well. One of the prettiest baskets we’ve ever seen was crammed full of colorful herbs, a riot of golden marjoram, silver thyme, purple sage, daisy-flowered chamomile, and a few bright nasturtiums with their big, lily padlike leaves.

Another subtle but effective combination can be achieved with vegetables, which are often very ornamental and colorful. Plant a mix of frilly red-leaved lettuces along with ruby chard and radicchio. In cold climates, plant the box with red, pink, and white ornamental cabbages in late summer.

Making the most of Winter Color

At the end of summer, your plants will start to fade (and who can blame them – they must be exhausted). But don’t just empty the basket and leave it in the shed to hibernate – where winters are not too cold, give it a new lease on life.

From September onwards, garden centers sell a range of small evergreens, such as miniature conifers, which are ideal as replacements for the taller bedding plants in the center of the basket. Around these, plant colorful heathers, and winter-flowering pansies; and to give it some real pizazz for spring, don’t forget to pop in some dwarf bulbs. As a finishing touch, plant variegated trailing ivy around the edges.

The basket will look lovely from fall through late spring and as a bonus. You’ll find it needs far less care than a summer basket. There’s no need to feed it – just give it an occasional watering if it’s necessary for winter, then water more regularly in spring as the weather warms up.

Don’t give up on your window boxes either. One of the simplest schemes is a mass of winter-flowering pansies (it’s particularly effective if they’re everything being identical color) under planted with bulbs such as dwarf narcissus or species tulips. To add height put in some small evergreens – golden-leaved forms are especially good, since they will look bright and cheerful even in the depths of winter.