How to Grow Climbers and Wall Shrubs in Small Garden

Climbing plants are invaluable for giving the garden a well-furnished, finished look. And as a bonus, if you have anything to hide (an ugly wall, a dilapidated shed), they’ll do it beautifully.

wall climbers plantsWe’ll be introducing you to some of the better wall shrubs here, too – plants like ceanothus and pyracantha, which will benefit from the warmth and shelter of a wall, and add height and interest. So although they’re not climbers, they deserve honorary membership.

Growing success
Preparing the planting site is dull work, but vital for success, so don’t take short cuts, especially when you’re planting close to walls where the soil is usually poor and dry. It’s doubly important when planting a climber to grow up a tree, where it will always face fierce competition from the tree’s roots.

First water the plant thoroughly, then dig a hole that’s twice the width of the container and 12 in/30cm deep. Ideally, set the hole at least 18 in/45cm from the wall or tree, though in confined spaces this isn’t always possible. Improve the excavated soil by mixing it with equal parts organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure. [Read more...]

Garden Design Tips and Advice

If you make a mistake and put a plant, especially a tree or shrub, in the wrong spot, don’t be afraid to move it -plants of even four or five years old can be moved successfully, especially in fall or early spring. While the soil is moist, dig a planting hole in the new location. Then dig a circle around the plant, excavating as far as you can underneath it.

garden tipsLift it, retaining as much of the rootball as possible as some damage is inevitable, but very seldom fatal. Transfer it as quickly as possible to the new hole, fill in the soil, and water well. For the next year, keep the plant watered during any dry spells. Older plants can have enormous rootballs, but if your only option is to move them, then at least they have a fighting chance of survival.

When you view the garden from the house or from your favorite sitting area, it’s good to have a focal point where the eye can rest for a moment. A beautiful tree, a handsome pot, or even a small statue, carefully sited, can unify the garden design. Long, narrow gardens are the hardest to design. To avoid the “tunnel” effect, break the space up into a series of “rooms” using plants, trellises, arches, or pergolas. An area of lawn and trees, for instance, will look much more intriguing and inviting if it’s first glimpsed through a rose-covered archway or arbor.

If you’re nervous about designing your garden, then it may be worthwhile to get professional help. Be careful as some designers are better than others. Ask your friends if they can recommend someone or inquire at your local garden center. When you find a designer you like, visit gardens that the landscaper has worked on rather than looking at sketches and photographs. Or, check through gardening magazines -you may find an article with a landscape plan that you can adapt to your own garden or the name of a landscape architect in your area. Professionals can offer everything from design consultation to complete installation services.

Gravel may seem like a good low-maintenance idea, an inert covering for large expanses of ground. But children love to throw it around. Soil infiltrates and weeds begin to sprout. Birds can scatter it all over, leaves litter in fall and are a nuisance to remove, and it should be raked regularly to keep it looking neat.


Credit: amo-designare

How to Create a Low-Maintenance Garden – Part 2

Next, think about your lawn. It should not take up a disproportionately large area of your yard and can readily be replaced with an evergreen ground cover. Mowing and trimming the edges of an average lawn of 120-240sq yd/100-200sq m shouldn’t take more than half an hour a week. The most important thing is to keep the shape simple, avoiding wavy edges and island beds or individual plants in the lawn. Mowing a lawn containing two large flower beds can take twice as long as mowing the same-sized lawn that has no obstacles.

low maintenance gardenEdging the whole lawn with bricks or paving slabs cut out the need for edge-trimming altogether – set them just below the lawn level and skim over them with the mower. And don’t feed it too often – it’ll only grow faster and need more cutting. Two feedings of an organic mulch a year, one in spring and the second in early fall, should be sufficient.

Your choice of plants is also important. Research carried out at a horticultural college a few years ago measured how much time is needed to care for different types of plants. On identically sized plots, a bedding scheme of annuals took 45 hours a year, rock garden 35 hours, mixed border 33 hours, and shrub border 30 hours. However, the shrub border underplanted with ground cover took just seven hours a year to maintain.

So it makes sense to cut back on labor-intensive plants like summer bedding and gradually introduce more easy-care shrubs. This includes the undemanding evergreen shrubs which provide the backbone of the garden, plus plenty of weed-suppressing ground covers. You don’t have to sacrifice flowers entirely, of course, but try to concentrate on a few of the long-flowering shrubs and climbers (some roses and clematis, for instance, will produce blooms right through summer) and include plenty of ground covers valued for their flowers, such as ajuga and candytuft.

Vegetables, although very rewarding to grow, are also time consuming, and fruit isn’t a bowl of cherries, either. Containers and, in particular, hanging baskets provide a wonderful splash of color, but can need a great deal of watering in summer. So don’t get too carried away with these labor-intensive plants – have a few, by all means, but don’t overdo it.

Once you’ve dug up the vegetable garden and thrown out the annuals, and you’re looking for something more carefree to plant, make sure you stick to varieties that suit your soil, climate, and the location you want to put them in. If you don’t, it’ll be hard work trying to get them established, and, even if they do grow, they’ll be far more prone to pests and diseases. A reputable garden center should be able to advise you on the best plants for local conditions.
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Growing Hardy Perennials in Your Garden

Hardy perennial is a handy catch-all term for a huge range of plants, but basically it means any long-lived frost proof plant that isn’t a tree or shrub.

Hardy PerennialsThe major group is the flowering herbaceous perennials-those wonderful plants that fill the spring and summer borders with color and die back to the ground in winter. But there are also others, like grasses and ferns, that we grow for the beauty of their foliage.

Long-lived, trouble-free, increasing in a beauty year by year, perennials give enormous pleasure in return for a relatively little effort.

Growing success

Most hardy perennials will be with you for a long time, so it’s worth giving them a hearty welcome by preparing the ground well before planting. Fork it over to loosen it and mix in plenty of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure.

Water your plants before setting them in the ground at the same level as they were in the pot, firming the soil around them. Water again and keep watering for the first few weeks if the weather is dry. They don’t need any regular feeding, but a spring boost of an all-purpose balanced fertilizer, such as 5-10-5, and a layer of organic mulch will be gratefully received.

Flowering plants can be kept looking neat by deadheading (removing faded flowerheads), and some will reward you with a second, smaller flush in bloom. Most perennials die back in winter, and the old growth can be cut down to ground level in the late fall.

A combination of contrasting leaf sizes, forms, and textures makes a long-lasting display.

Division

Many hardy perennials will spread into quite substantial clumps, and after three or four years the center of the clump may become overcrowded or die out and produce fewer flowers. So to rejuvenate them, and increase your stock, divide them.

The best times to do this is in fall (when they’ll be starting to go dormant) or early spring (when they’ll be eager to start growing). Water the plants if the soil is dry, then dig around them with a fork and lift the whole clump, taking as much of the root as possible.

This is where it may become tricky, because while some will separate into plantlets simply by teasing them apart, others are so woody that you may have to chop through them with a spade, machete, or a sharp knife. It sounds brutal, but as long as each portion has a reasonable number of roots attached. It should be all right. Pick the best, most vigorous plantlets and replant them at the original depth – they’ll soon develop.

But just a word of warning: some perennials are poisonous or have irritant sap, so if in doubt, always wear gloves and try not to get plant juices on your skin.
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