How To Paint a Brick

If you’re wondering why in the world somebody would want to paint over a perfectly good brick wall, you’ll find that half the professionals will be in agreement, so the question of how to paint brick walls is necessarily preceded by the question of whether you want to.

The balanced approach would probably be to keep the brick exposed while it looks good, and then paints it once it starts to have that cracked, chipped and faded look. That way you can enjoy the best of both worlds.

Step One

The key to a good paint job on brick lies in the prepping. There are several steps required to get the brick ready to accept paint properly. The first is the removal of white deposits called efflorescence, which is what happens when brick exudes its salts as an effect of being drenched and dried repeatedly. It is unseemly but easily cleaned. Use a wire brush over the area dry, and it’ll come right off.

Step Two

The next step is to make sure that any cracks are widened with a scraper, cleaned out with a brush or power vacuum, and then caulked with either the pure acrylic or the silicone and acrylic kind. You’ll need to wait about five hours and then re-apply if required. Once you’ve done this look carefully for any damaged mortar joints that may need re-pointing.

Step Three

The final prep step is to remove any mildew that may have set in over time. Bleach solution is perfect for nearly any surface. Scrub the solution over the affected areas and hose down thoroughly. Let the wall dry properly – with a capital P – a couple of days or more worth of dry weather should let the deep wetness go away. Now we can come to the question of how to paint brick.

If you haven’t done so already, go to the paint store for some latex primer for brick, or conditioner paint, and your choice of external paint. Primer or conditioner needs at least two coats, with adequate drying times in between. Areas of severe efflorescence may need more to bring the color to an even spread. Most professional house painters recommend the use of rubberized paint, which is an excellent water-repellent and will literally stretch itself to fill minor cracks. Again, two coats with adequate time in between.

Regular paint is fine too, but be sure to use the good stuff for exteriors. 100% acrylic latex paints come in matte, semi-gloss, gloss and satin finishes. Now that you know how to paint brick, you can go to town on the choice of colors.

However, it might be wise to choose a conservative color because if you’re unhappy with a garish color that you thought was going to look good when you bought the paint, you’ll be in a fix – repainting brick is neither fun not cheap. That is, of course, unless you like brash colors or don’t mind a little experimentation.

Repairing Wood Veneer – Home DIY Project

A wood veneer, by its very nature, enhances the surface of a cheaper material. But it is prone to chipping, blistering and loose edges. With a craft knife, adhesive and a strip of new veneer, such as damage is straightforward to repair.

repairing wood veenerA This mahogany box, as the photograph above shows, was chipped and the veneer loose in places, yet it was possible to restore it to its former glory-Veneers have been used for centuries to give cheap surfaces a more expensive and attractive appearance.

Wood veneers are usually hardwoods such as mahogany, teak, oak and walnut. Veneer is more prone to damage than solid pieces of wood because it is thin and glued to another surface. Old or badly glued veneer often becomes loose and must be glued back in place before further damage occurs. Chipped veneer can be mended by cutting a replacement piece and gluing it in place

It is not difficult to mend chipped veneer, but if the piece of furniture is particularly valuable it is better to have it professionally restored.

Blistered veneer
Blisters form under the veneer where the glue fails to stick. An old piece of furniture is likely to be stuck with animal glue, which may only need to be heated to be re-stuck. Modern pieces will need to have fresh glue applied and PVA adhesive is suitable.

Heating the glue – You will need
- Cardboard
- Domestic iron
- Clamp or weight

1. Lay a piece of thick cardboard over the blister. Move a hot iron slowly back and forward over the cardboard, to heat the glue beneath the veneer. Leave the cardboard in place and clamp or weight the blister for 24 hours. If the blister has not gone, proceed to the next method.

Re-gluing a blister

1. Following the grain line, slit blister down the middle. Using an artists’ brush, remove as much old glue and dirt as possible from under the blister.

2. Hold down one side of the blister to open the crack. Put adhesive into the blister using a cocktail stick. Hold the glued side down and do the same on the other. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth. Clamp or weight the blister for 24 hours.

Loose veneer

If the edge of the veneer has started to come away, simply glue it back down. With care, hold the veneer away from the base and clean away as much old glue as possible. Apply the glue either with the nozzle of the adhesive container or a cocktail stick.

Replacing veneer

The new piece of veneer must match the surrounding grain as closely as possible and butt up exactly to the surrounding edges.

When buying veneer it is more important to match the pattern of the grain than the color, as wood stains can be used to correct the color. Many DIY shops and hardware stores sell veneer, or mail order suppliers can be found in woodwork and craft magazines.

Modern veneers are often too thin for the job, if so stick together a number of layers. Sand down the back of new veneer if it is too thick.

Mending chipped edges

1. Cut away any jagged edges on the remaining veneer using a craft knife. Scrape off any old glue from the base. Tape tracing paper over the damaged area and draw around the outline.

2. Turn tracing paper over and place on back of replacement veneer. Trace the outline on to veneer. Cut out using the craft knife. Glue in place. Clamp or weight the piece for 24 hours.

Replacing damaged areas

If the veneer is damaged in the body of the furniture, the procedure is similar to that given above. The replacement piece will be slightly bigger than the damaged area. The shape depends on the grain of the wood. If the wood has a straight line grain like larch, make a four sided shape slightly bigger than the damaged area. With a knotty grain such as walnut, make an irregular shape which will blend in more effectively. These shapes must be cut exactly to ensure a perfect fit.

I. Draw the shape on to a piece of tracing paper and transfer this to the new veneer as before. Cut out the replacement piece. Place this over the damaged area and using the craft knife, draw around it leaving a scratched outline of the shape. Take away the veneer template and cut around the shape on the furniture.

2. Gently remove any veneer within the shape by prising it away with a small chisel. Glue the new piece in place. Wipe off excess glue and clamp until dry.
Image: by Simon Howden

How to Make Your Own Butcher Block Countertops

Butcher Block Work Countertops
Kitchen furniture can send you back a bit of money, especially if you are thinking of getting a style called the butcher block Countertops. The truth is, it’s not that difficult to come up with your own, and you can do so for half the price it would cost to buy one from the store.

Making your own butcher block will also ensure you of the quality of the piece, especially since it will be one of the most frequently used areas of your kitchen. Butcher block tables are similar in design, but you can differentiate and personalize it by your choice of the block surface.

First, you have to gather your materials. For the wood materials, you are going to need 4 pieces of 10-foot Douglas firewood, measuring 2 feet by 4 feet and preferably kiln dried. You will also need a hardwood piece that is one inch by two inches and measuring around 12 feet.

For preparing the wood, get hold of wood clamps, a table saw or a skill saw, measuring tape, a T-square, 0000-grade steel wool, and assorted sandpaper sheets that range from 100 to 200 grit. You will also need to buy mineral spirits, spar varnish, a varnish brush, and an Epoxy resin and hardener kit. Also make sure you have your safety gear ready for working with wood and chemicals, such as a respirator, latex gloves and safety glasses.

Now that you’re all geared up, you can start constructing your own butcher block table. Start with the Douglas firs, dividing the 10 foot pieces in parts measuring 30 inches each. These will be the legs of the table. These will make pairs to create cross-members that measure 60 inches, serving as the foundation of the work table.

Use the hardwood pieces for the work table surface. Going with the side grain, cut the hardwood into pieces measuring one inch by two inches. Lay the hardwood bands side by side. Doing this will certainly provide a sturdy working surface by positioning the most rigid parts of the wood correctly.
Next, clamp the table surface pieces together and binds them using the resin and hardener. Work in pairs, clamping and gluing two pieces at a time until you come up with a work surface measuring 24 inches by 60 inches. By working carefully, you will come up with a solid surface that will withstand years of rough use.

Give the resin and hardener enough time to be completely dry before applying the finish. Using the 10 grit sandpaper, sand the work surface thoroughly, removing all the leftover resin and hardener and guaranteeing a flat table top. Next, mix equal amounts of spar varnish and mineral spirits and apply it to the countertop. Allow it to completely dry to make sure your table top is water resistant. When dry, sand it lightly with the 220 grit sandpaper sheet.

Next, mix one part of mineral spirits to 3 parts of varnish, and coat the work surface with this solution. Again, allow to be thoroughly dry before sanding lightly with the 220 grit sandpaper sheet. As a final finish, apply a coat of pure spar varnish and rub with the steel wool for a smooth surface.

You now have a basic butcher block countertop to put in your kitchen. To personalize your block, you can research on designs and styles and apply them on your own.


Ergonomic yet Stylish Desks

The first impression matters and that’s why executives are willing to invest more in the most elegant office desks money can buy. When a potential client enters the door, the first thing that catches his eye is the desk and this explains why it is worth directing more resources towards purchasing a superior one. The desks from ComputerDesk.com match the description to the letter, and the nice variety of products is the best guarantee that those who visit the website will not leave empty-handed.

Those who lay their eyes on the Modern Black Lacquer Entire Office Collection would probably stop looking any further, because this is the ultimate mix of style and usefulness. It contains three pieces finished in black lacquer, a massive executive desk and sufficient plugs for both phone and the Internet. No matter how much stuff one might need to store, the two cabinets are roomy enough to accommodate plenty of items, so that nothing will be misplaced.

Last but not least this home office furniture from ComputerDesk.com features a third storage cabinet that has a sliding door for easy access. The entire assemble radiates grace and the three pieces fit together nicely, without taking a lot of space. There is more than meets the eye about this desk, because behind its glamorous appearance lie, commercial-grade products that are bound to withstand the test of time. Just in case something bad happens, the five-year warranty will ensure a swift repair of any damage piece.