A Fireplace that Gives Warmth to any Home

For centuries, practically nothing can provide a home just like a roaring fire on an open fireplace, giving brightness and warmness to a dwelling and family members. Right now, getting a hearth can be an actual selling point and typically catch the attention of potential home buyers. Be it the family room, family room, or perhaps a master bedroom. In case you have a self-contained gas hearth insert, then a great deal of clutter and work involved using a customary wood fire might be prevented.

Who does not enjoy a fireplace in the middle of the wintertime? If you reside in a very chilly environment, for sure you already owned a fireplace. Here in US, there are some places that cold months are more longer that summer months. Therefore, a fireplace is a must have for every home.

However, there are plenty of fireplaces to choose from and one of my favorites is the Blomus stainless steel fireplace set and firepit. What I love about this Blomus stainless steel firepit is its durability, which is ideal for porches and outdoor camping. Considering the fact that it is made of durable steel, adding more woods is a hassle free. This exceptionally polished stainless steel firepit is an outdoor fireplace that truly rocks. Having this product, you can get warmth, beauty and versatility from one outdoor wares. Therefore, getting another versatile product like the Blomus stainless steel teaset will be perfect to complement this gorgeous fireplace set.

Renovating Picture Frames

Beautifully framed pictures add atmosphere to a room and the choice of frame and picture says as much about the owner’s personality as any other ornaments. Avoid the expense of buying new picture frames by renovating existing or secondhand frames.

Frames
Whether you are looking for simple classic lines or intricately carved details, it is still possible to pick up a wide range of secondhand frames quite cheaply and renovate them to use with the existing picture or one of your own.

Some frames may be badly damaged and need a great deal of care and attention, although the majority only needs cleaning and the minimum amount of repair. Whatever the repair may require, always remember that part of the charm of an old frame lies in the patina of age, so don’t over-restore an interesting frame bought in a junk shop or market.

Wooden frames

The majority of frames are made of wood and those that have no special finish (simply waxed or varnished) are often instantly transformed when rubbed down with a wax or varnish remover. Dry bare wood can be revived by rubbing linseed oil into it ¡ª this enhances the grain and deepens the color.

French polish -
To revive French polish rub on a mixture of 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 vinegar and 1/3 methylated spirit If you wish to remove the polish, wipe down with a methylated spirit

Lacquer - If the frame has a high gloss lacquered finish you can disguise small scratches or marks with a little shellac mixed with a matching powder pigment (available from most art suppliers).

Paint Clean - painted frames with a little soap and water, making sure that no water reaches the joints.

Veneer - Should you have a frame that has been covered with a thin layer of fancy wood, the only sure way to remove a finish without damaging the veneer is to sand it off gradually by hand. When purchasing frames always check for woodworm. If there arc any tell-tale holes the frame will need treating with a proprietary solution. Don’t worry if the joints are loose as these can easily be strengthened.

Plaster moulded frames.

Most plaster frames are moulded on a wooden base. Provided the plaster is not flaking or crumbling, repairing chipped areas is fairly straightforward.

Small areas can be built up with a filler. The repair is then retouched so that it matches the rest of the frame. For larger, more complicated areas you will need to take a mould from an undamaged section of this frame, make a cast and then glue the newly made section in place.

Should you have a plaster frame that seems beyond repair, don’t throw it away; the moulding can often be chiseled away lo expose a simple but serviceable wooden frame. To soften the plaster over it with damp rags for several days. Once the plaster has been removed, clean the wood by sanding down with glass paper, if the wood be of poor quality, cover it with fabric.

Gilt frames

Gilt or gilded frames are mainly plaster frames finished with gold leaf or paint ¡ª wooden frames may be trimmed with a gilt. Before attempting any repair it is important to establish which finish has been used ¡ª if you are in any doubt ask a professional. Any repairs and cleaning must be carried out before applying the finish.

Gold leaf - Antique frames are often gilded with real gold leaf. This is extremely thin and needs cautious treatment. If the frame is of value then you should leave any repair to a professional. Should the frame simply need cleaning, gently rub over it with a soft cloth or cotton wool and a mild solution of vinegar and water and buff up.

Gold paint - This does not have the same lustre as gold leaf and is far easier to repair. The best finish is achieved with a wax-based paste (or wax gilt). It can be applied to the frame using a cloth or small brush. As the paint is wax-based it will not dry completely and needs to be buffed with a soft cloth, before a protective coat of varnish can be applied.

Metal frames
Small scratches can be concealed with a little metallic paint (available from art shops). Dirt can be removed by washing down with soap and water.

Stripping Wooden Furniture – Home DIY

Stripping old furniture is one of the more messy aspects of renovation, but the satisfaction of revealing the natural grain of the wood hidden for decades beneath layers of dirty paint or darkened varnish makes all the effort worthwhile.

Old wooden furniture often suffers many indignities by the name of fashion; simple pieces may have been covered in thick layers of paint, badly applied varnish or topped with plastic laminate in an endeavor to ‘modernize’ them.

With the original wood covered in such finishes it may be difficult to believe that the furniture is worth salvaging, but with a little work most pieces can be restored. The finish must be stripped, whether you plan to varnish, paint, wax or polish the piece later.

Before you start.

Before you begin to sand and scrape, take a long hard look at your furniture. It is important to establish exactly what the finish is and to get an idea of the sort of wood underneath as these will affect the method of stripping you choose.

Most old pieces of furniture were finished with wax, oil, stain, varnish or French polish. However, no two pieces are alike, and you may find you have a table or chair which has accumulated several layers of paint. Wax is best cleaned off with a cloth covered with a white spirit, and old stain has to be sanded away. Paint and varnish will need ‘Stripping with a hot air gun or chemical stripper.

Veneered furniture

Never assume that your table is made from solid wood. If you start to strip a heavily painted table or chest of drawers using any of the methods mentioned above you may discover a thin delicate veneer coming away with the paint scrapings. A veneered table must be identified as such before you begin.

If it is impossible to tell through the finish, scrape away a small section of the paint on an inconspicuous part of the table with a craft knife so you can study the wood underneath. The only sure way to remove the old layers of paint and varnish without destroying the veneer is to sand them off gradually by hand. Even then, you may find the veneer is damaged.

Fixtures and fittings

If your piece of furniture has metal handles or hinges or ceramic knobs, it is essential to remove them before you begin, as they can be affected by chemical or hot air strippers. Take out any drawers and treat them separately. Old chests of drawers may be fitted with wooden knobs ¡ª these can be stripped along with the rest of the surface.

If your furniture has an old waxed or varnished finish that is basically sound, you can use a reviving fluid to clean and enhance the patina. Mix a solution of four parts white spirit to one part linseed oil and apply to the surface with a cloth. For carved and turned sections, apply the fluid with a soft paint brush and polish off with a cloth. This will remove the layers of dirt without destroying the old finish.

Stripping different surfaces Stained and waxed furniture.

Furniture with a stained or waxed finish must be cleaned back to the bare wood in order to give a good, fresh finish. The best way to remove old colored wood is to sand it away.

Use a sanding block and a selection of graded sandpaper, starting with a medium grade and finishing with a fine grade. Always sand with the grain of the wood to avoid unnecessary scratches. For large surfaces, it is worth using an electric orbital sander, but always finish by hand. Once you have reached the natural wood, polish with fine grade wire wool to give the grain a silky finish. Wax can be removed with the white spirit.

Painted and varnished furniture.

Step 1.

Use either a hot air gun or chemical strippers to strip furniture with a painted or varnished finish. Electric hot air guns are a safer version of the blowtorch (which can be tricky to use and tends to scorch the wood). They heat to a high temperature, blistering and softening the paint and varnish in their airstream until it can be scraped off with a shave hook or flat scraper.

Step 2.

Never direct the airstream at one particular spot for too long, as this can cause slight scorching that will discolor the wood below. (Discoloration is not a problem if you plan to paint over the stripped wood.)

Step 3.

With soft woods such as pine, there is also a danger of gouging the surface when removing the paint. Use a wide scraper held at a shallow angle to lift the paint. Chemical strippers create a chemical reaction which softens the paint. There are three kinds ¡ª liquid, gel and paste.

Step 4.

The liquid and gel can be applied to the surface with an old paint brush and scraped off about 30 minutes later, once the paint has been softened. The surface must then be neutralized with white spirit or water (according to manufacturer’s instructions) to remove all traces of the stripper. Several applications may be necessary to remove a thick build-up of paint.

Step 5.

Paste strippers usually come in powder form and must be mixed with water before they can be applied. After about 30 minutes the paste coating can be scored with a blunt knife and peeled away along with the old paint or varnish. These strippers are particularly suitable for carved or turned pieces.

If stripping indoors, ensure the room is well ventilated, protect your floor covering with several layers of newspaper and keep children and animals out of the way. Wear rubber gloves while you work as the chemicals can burn your skin, and dispose of the paint or varnish scrapings carefully.

Once the furniture is completely stripped, sand thoroughly and finish by rubbing down with a fine grade wire wool.

Bathroom Remodeling Ideas – Create Your Own Spa Bathroom

Bathroom Remodeling Ideas
Creating a spa bathroom can be as much fun as it is hard work. With all the work that goes into it, you may not even have the time to reflect on whether you’ve made the right choices. Choosing the stuff that goes in, such as tubs, showers, sinks and other vanities will probably be the best part, second only to finally gazing upon the result of all your labor.

The prime consideration apart from your bathroom fittings is your fund for the contracting costs, because this type of work is specialized, and you don’t want to cut corners here. Time is another resource you’re going to need plenty of if only to make sure that it’s shaping up exactly the way you’ve envisioned it.

Decide what amenities you’d like to have. A spa bathroom should definitely have a whirlpool bath or a Jacuzzi. An ordinary bath tub might get the job done but if won’t feel like it’s enriching your personal space. Even though one of these could set you back as much as eight to ten times an ordinary tub, nothing feels better than to whirl your worries away in your custom-built spa bathroom.

Showers for spa bathrooms are as varied as you want them to be. There are rainfall-type showers; side body-jets; even height-adjustable shower heads that look like something out of star-trek; and generally a whole lot of functional and aesthetic options you can go for. Even the stalls are the walk-in type rather than the stand-up-in-the-tub type. And they can be made of anything from glass blocks to marble tiles.

Sinks also come in a variety of models, with massive double-faucet models; single swivel-type models that are really cool to operate; automatic-sensor models that will turn the faucet to wherever your hand is placed; in fact, anything you can design that’s practical, can be built for you – at a price, of course.

Vanities come in all the shapes, sizes and colors that human moods do. Of course, you’ll definitely need to have the double-vanities which allow two people to use the sink together.

When making practical decisions while creating a Spa Bathroom, you will also need to consider heating, lighting and interior finishes. In-floor heating is efficient as well as effective, and would be the best option for uniformly heated floors. A lot of people consider a fireplace a little over-the-edge but hey, it’s your spa bathroom. Lighting needs to be planned so that the correct play of light and shadow creates exactly the mood you’re looking for.

Dimmers on a remote-controlled light switch would be awesome. Although ceramic would be the natural choice for the walls, there are so many types that you would do well to take the time to explore what’s out there so you can get the best for all the money and effort you’ll be putting into the project.